Moon Mausoleum
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Hiding in the old watermill in the little Serbian village of Zarožje, one of the most famed vampires from the country is said to reside. The legend of Sava Savanović and his reign of terror has frightened Serbians for centuries, and according to local lore, perhaps for centuries more.
Hiding in the old watermill in the little Serbian village of Zarožje, one of the most famed vampires from the country is said to reside. The legend of Sava Savanović and his reign of terror has frightened Serbians for centuries, and according to local lore, perhaps for centuries more.
Hidden deep within the rugged hills of western Serbia, in a remote corner of the Valjevo region, lies a forgotten mill, its timbers splintered and its wheel long since stilled. This is no ordinary ruin — it is the alleged lair of Sava Savanović, Serbia’s most notorious vampire, a sinister figure whose legend has cast a shadow over the Balkans for centuries.
While vampires are often associated with Transylvania and Bram Stoker’s Dracula, Serbia harbors its own blood-curdling stories that continue to live in local legends, and few are as unsettling as that of Sava Savanović.
The story of Sava Savanović centers around an old watermill near the village of Zarožje, perched beside the cold, fast-flowing Rogačica River on the slopes of the Povlen mountain. Today, there are around 600 people left, and it is growing smaller and more abandoned every year. The village is in the midst of forests and meadows and one of the things they have in abundance is potatoes, raspberries and old watermills.
According to local legend, Sava was a reclusive figure who owned the mill centuries ago in a narrow and dark ravine overgrown with tall beech trees. The villagers whispered that he wasn’t quite human — and they were right.
The village was no stranger to vampire legends before the 18th century. According to one, Saint Sava, in order to save people from terror, turned a local vampire into stone. The vampire was then buried, with only his teeth protruding out of the ground, as a warning to the sinners.
Then it became the reign of Sava Savanović. Not much is known about his life or exactly when this happened, but at least before the mid 18th century. Some say that he was a successful cattle trader and a brave hajducke. According to one version of the legend, Sava Savanović came from the village of Ovčinja, neighboring Zarožje, where he was buried near the ancient walls. He died in the Zarožje mill where he worked, and as a vampire he returned to his old workplace and strangled his heirs. The legends are many, but they all trace back to this one man who became a monster.
In most versions of the legend, he was unmarried and lived with his brother. In some versions of the legend, he was caught up in a tragic one sided romance. It is said he grew old an ugly, but fell in love with a much younger girl who rejected him time and time again.
She is in some versions the daughter of a local merchant in the village. One day she was tending to her sheep or cattle, when he again made his advances and proposed. She declined and turned her back to him, angering him so much he pulled his pistol and shot her dead or strangled her.
His brother Stanko saw it all and they started fighting about his weapon. The gunshot attracted shepherds who saw the two men fighting and the dead girl. When Stanko tried to flee, they shot him in the back, thinking he was a thief. Not all versions of the brother die. When the local villagers realized the whole story, they beat Sava to death with hoes and mattocks. In some versions, he shoots himself when he realizes what he did.
After his death, it was said that Sava Savanović rose from his grave as a vampire. Some versions claimed he was laid to rest in the local cemetery. Some say that because of his crimes, he was buried close to the scene of the crime and the mill. Some say his grave was in a crooked ravine under an elm tree and after years, was forgotten.
The look of a vampire was far from how they are portrayed in today’s media. His skin blackened by death, but still moving, more monster than man. By night, he would return to the mill and wait for weary travelers and millers seeking to grind their grain. Those unfortunate enough to venture there alone after dark would never be seen again. Sava would reportedly drain his victims of blood, leaving behind only pale, shriveled corpses, their faces twisted in expressions of terror.
Some stories claimed Sava could transform into mist or a black dog, a common motif in Balkan vampire folklore, and that he possessed superhuman strength and speed. The old watermill earned the grim moniker of “the vampire’s lair.”
The villagers decided they had to take action against his reign of terror that had gone on for years and they started to look for his grave again. Some claim that his grave was found in 1880 or around there as the short stories based on these legends were first published that year.
When they dug him up, they found his body as he had died. They staked his heart with a hawthorne stake as the ritual demanded. When they staked him, a butterfly flew out from his corpse and the priest was not quick enough to pour holy water in time. The butterfly or moth in Serbian folklore is often thought to be the vampire soul, and if the butterfly escapes, it can possess another person.
After this, it was the butterfly that plagued the people, suffocating newborns across western Serbia for 30 years. Perhaps it found another host. Some say that the spirit or revenant of the butterfly or Sava Savanović even does to this day.
The legend of Sava Savanović didn’t exist in isolation. Serbia was a hotbed of vampire hysteria during the 18th century, with well-documented cases like Arnold Paole and Petar Blagojević. These incidents were taken so seriously that Austrian authorities performed official exhumations and issued written reports on suspected vampires, fueling Europe’s growing fascination with the undead.
Read More: Check out more about the vampire cases of Petar Blagojević and Arnold Paole
It’s interesting that we don’t really know if the legend of Paole and Blagojević or Savanović came first. But for Serbians, Savanović is certainly the most well known and considered Serbian’s first vampire where a lot of popular culture is based on the legend. As the story of Paole and Blagojević became known through Austrian reports in German, and is therefore much more known in the west.
The infamous watermill of Zarožje, believed to be Sava’s lair, stood for centuries as a chilling monument to the legend. This is where he lived or where he snuck in to feed on people sleeping inside. Located in the Valjevo region, it remained a link to Serbia’s vampiric past 3 kilometers from the Bajina Bašta-Valjevo road. There is a legend that vampires are found around mills in Serbia, especially in Roman myths. This is also the case with the small town of Grocka in Podunavlje in Serbia.
Sava Savanović’s legend was immortalized in Milorad Pavić’s 1880 novella “After Ninety Years”, widely considered Serbia’s first vampire novel. As he was from the neighboring village, Valjevo, he probably heard this and other vampire stories growing up.
For the last several decades the watermill associated with Savanović has been owned by the Jagodić family, and is usually called “Jagodića vodenica” (Jagodići’s watermill) and was in operation until the 1950s. After it closed it became a tourist location and slowly broke down.
The legend was later adapted into the cult horror-comedy film “Leptirica” (The She-Butterfly) in 1973. The film, with its eerie soundtrack, desolate forest setting, and nightmarish vampire figure, remains a cornerstone of Balkan horror cinema.
In January 2010, the city of Valjevo selected the mythical Sava Savanović as the touristic mascot of the city and the entire Kolubara region because the writer Milovan Glisic was from there. Zarožje and Valjevo are on the opposing sides of the Povlen mountain, but both claim Savanović as their brand. The local community of Zarožje threatened to sue the city, but ultimately only reported to the police in Bajina Bašta that Savanović was “stolen from them”.
In 2012, the mill tragically collapsed, sparking fears among villagers that Sava’s spirit had been released once again and the sale of garlic boomed as people became genuinely worried. The local council even humorously issued a public statement warning residents to hang garlic and holy crosses to ward off the vampire’s wrath — a folkloric custom deeply rooted in the region’s superstitions.
Plans were set in motion to rebuild the mill as a tourist attraction, preserving the story for future generations while still paying respect to its eerie history. By December 2022, the mill was renovated, but wasn’t operational (“dry docked”). The doors of the “watermill of fear” are always open. Despite the lack of roads, organization, guides and still unfinished structure, by 2022 some 16,000 people were visiting the watermill yearly.
But what do the locals think about it today? Many feel conflicted and the church even warned about using such an evil entity as the trademark, even for tourism. Many don’t like the dark shadow it casts, either because of the fear about the legend, or the silliness of it all. Some think the legend was created by thieves in the 19th century to scare villagers and prevent them from looking into it when they were breaking into people’s homes.
Vampire Sava Savanovic Is On The Loose, Serbian Village Council Warns (Seriously) | HuffPost UK News
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The Vampire of Zarožje: The Legend of Sava Savanović
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